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sheet copper

eugenio_78

Guest
Good day to all,
Having to make a tip for copper sheets I am looking for information on which is the best cutting angle to make the blade.
It is about cutting small copper sheet width 100 mm thickness 0.5 mm.
I have to make a tip like that of the plates, with a fixed blade below and a mobile blade above.
thank you for your suggestions, hello.
 
the best angle is to cut parallel to the material, i.e. angle 0°.
Usually to reduce cutting efforts you use angles that do not go beyond 3rd. the more you increase the angle and the more you make the lamia that is after the blade, that is the one you are cutting. the more wide and the more the risk of leaving it deformed and the cut is torn.
personally I would do no more than 1st.
 
by cutting angle means the angle forming the two blades between them in the cutting phase.
in the cut, with shears, with shears, with scissors and similar, it does not exist and does not use the angle 0°, as the unique barrel on the whole length of the cut, would favour the removal of the two blades with "biased" cutting material, if not even not cut.
However, this angle must be as small as possible, to avoid the excessive slipping of the cut strip, so no more than a few degrees.
You could do tests for copper or even make the upper blade tilt adjustable. also mechanically.
when you cut the material with the punching machine, to make holes, you make the flat-head punch and you have a cutting angle of 0°, but here is the opposite reaction at any point of the cut.
However also on these punches, when necessary, curve adjustments are practiced, to give continuity of cutting beyond the thickness of the sheet.
the copper then tends to knead the blades, therefore to have a good net cut on the thickness of 0.5mm, the blades must be recorded with zero interspace, that is to contact and with a strip angle is lower than at least 1°. Maybe it was what you asked, but knowing something more, it won't hurt you.
 
by cutting angle means the angle forming the two blades between them in the cutting phase.
in the cut, with shears, with shears, with scissors and similar, it does not exist and does not use the angle 0°, as the unique barrel on the whole length of the cut, would favour the removal of the two blades with "biased" cutting material, if not even not cut.
However, this angle must be as small as possible, to avoid the excessive slipping of the cut strip, so no more than a few degrees.
You could do tests for copper or even make the upper blade tilt adjustable. also mechanically.
when you cut the material with the punching machine, to make holes, you make the flat-head punch and you have a cutting angle of 0°, but here is the opposite reaction at any point of the cut.
However also on these punches, when necessary, curve adjustments are practiced, to give continuity of cutting beyond the thickness of the sheet.
the copper then tends to knead the blades, therefore to have a good net cut on the thickness of 0.5mm, the blades must be recorded with zero interspace, that is to contact and with a strip angle is lower than at least 1°. Maybe it was what you asked, but knowing something more, it won't hurt you.
I don't think he asked about the strip corner, but the main cut angle.
the various builders have all their opinions. there are baskets made with double kinky cut plates or tranches for the thin which have the main cut angle equal to zero. Low speeds and high pairs with additional inertia engines (usually Americans).
 
I would personally have a good indication of being on as regards alpha, which is the main cutting angle.
the angle of strip delta, the higher and the less the primer needs during cutting.
for a precision cut it is good that there is the primer. Screenshot_20231015_180902_Drive.webpin the image above there are the recommended values that you find on the tracking and shearing manuals.

In reality you can use perfectly rectangular blades but with the upper blade mounted inclined so that there is only one contact point without dragging the material between the blades.

definitely the game gmp blades is good that it is recordable because you will have to find the optimal value to make the blades last and cut without a must.

will the basket start/stop with the material that advances in step or the tape is continuously and you have to chase?
 
I do not agree on the possibility to mount the upper blade perfectly rectangular, inclined.
it would create a negative cut strip angle, with the consequence that the sheet would first be folded down, then cut.
negative strip can be used in turning, but never in traditional shearing.
It is, however, very useful if not necessary, to have the primer, as close as possible to the cutting line.
 
definitely having one or two blades made in parallelgram allows to have two sharp threads for each blade and a dot contact point without dragging the material during cutting. this allows you to have very small bays.Screenshot_20231016_205607_Drive.jpgwith regard to more fragile materials it is possible to rectiline the blades, perhaps with a rectangular section. definitely the bava can be much more accentuated on the not very raw materials. The fracture will tend to be a bit inclined.Screenshot_20231016_205929_Drive.jpgmitsubishi-hitachi patented a cut from the back that uses both linear and mounted on the drum shears. allows to optimize the game parameter blades that at the beginning of the cut turns out to be great (then less cutting effort) and then decrease with the thickness. this conformation arises on the large sheet thicknesses to decrease the main cutting angle and still get a benefit of cutting effort reduction. is also appreciated on thin material.Screenshot_20231016_212415_Sketchbook.jpg
 
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to bring some differences between the shears rising and descending straight from the curvilinear, here are two inmages:1697485056723.webp
1697485071438.webpclearly that if we have to do so many cycles, we will have sensitive advantage with the curved system at the expense of the well-finished edge.
 

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